Beyond the Liveaboard - A Different Way to Dive Raja Ampat

May 10, 2025

Ask any diver about Raja Ampat, Indonesia, and you will likely hear the same thing—it is one of the best destinations for divers on the planet. Known for its vast coral reefs pulsing with life, massive schools of fish, graceful manta rays, and elusive pygmy seahorses, every site here feels world-class—only until the next dive raises the bar even higher. If you are looking to dive Raja Ampat, you will experience underwater encounters that are constant, intense, and so good that it leaves you wondering where else in the world can rival this place.

Located in Indonesia’s Southwest Papua Province, Raja Ampat is an archipelago of roughly 1,500 islands, limestone formations, and sandbars at the northwest tip of the Bird’s Head Peninsula. It sits within the Coral Triangle, a region recognized as the epicenter of marine biodiversity. Spanning parts of Indonesia, the Philippines, and Malaysia, the Coral Triangle holds the highest diversity of reef fish and corals in the world. To dive Raja Ampat is to experience a living snapshot of what our oceans once looked like in eons past.

Exploring Raja Ampat from Land: A New Way to Dive

Even the name "Raja Ampat" holds weight and history behind it. It translates to "Four Kings," a reference to its four main islands: Misool, Salawati, Batanta, and Waigeo. According to legend, a woman found seven dragon eggs, four of which hatched into kings who went on to rule the islands, another became a queen, one became a ghost, and the final one remained unhatched, eventually turning to stone the local communities now worship. Historically, however, the name stems from the 15th-century Tidore Sultanate of the Molucca Islands, which appointed four local rulers to govern these lands. 

Today, Raja Ampat stands as one of the last bastions of a thriving, intact marine ecosystem, making it a top destination on many divers’ lists as a must-see at least once in their lifetime. With 610 islands and over 740 kilometers of coastline, the region offers an unparalleled glimpse into a world that feels untouched by time. But time is a funny thing. As the years pass, even the most remote corners of the world have succumbed to the pressures of modernization. By 2018, word of Raja Ampat’s biodiversity had truly spread far and wide, and divers from around the world came to dive Raja Ampat to experience its pristine underwater beauty.

What was once an isolated dive destination had become more accessible than ever, drawing increasing numbers of visitors. Yet getting to Raja Ampat is still no small feat, regardless of the increased infrastructure developed throughout the region. The journey here requires flying through Jakarta or Bali before reaching the gateway city of Sorong. From there, one must ferry or fly via charter plane to the next set of sites. 

Most divers swear by exploring the region via Raja Ampat liveaboards, which offer access to a variety of dive sites throughout a single trip. But this suggestion left me curious to explore another option, and one that was considered the less sought-after choice. 

What would it mean to dive Raja Ampat by land instead of liveaboard? 

Could I dive Raja Ampat sustainably while being more connected to the local communities that call this place home? These questions shaped my approach consisting of two weeks spent across the archipelago. I was eager to see if land-based diving could be just as rewarding as the liveaboard experience, all in hopes of getting to connect more deeply with a place so highly regarded as "the best."

The journey began on the southernmost island of Misool before heading north to Waigeo. We quickly came to discover the rumors surrounding this place to be very true. Both regions delivered beyond expectation:

This was some of the best diving we had encountered on the Edges of Earth expedition.

Taking a speedboat ferry from Sorong city down to Misool, we found ourselves in the genuine remotes of the archipelago, surrounded by local fishing boats, villages over the water on stilts, and the looming storm fronts rolling in from every direction that you could see from miles away due to a sky unblocked by modernity. 

Love Indonesia? Here are 11 Must-Dive Indonesian Dive Destinations

One of the most impressive aspects of diving in the south was the tightly controlled system that allowed only one boat per dive site at a time, all coordinated through an organized booking system. This was just as much about logistics as it was about putting conservation best practices in action. 

Misool Resort and its sister organization, Misool Foundation, have set a global standard for sustainable dive tourism, ensuring that divers interact with these fragile ecosystems responsibly, often without even realizing it. In a region where overcrowding and excess tourism threaten marine life, Misool has proven that with careful management, even high-traffic sites can remain protected, and it can still feel genuinely remote to dive Raja Ampat.

To dive Raja Ampat in January meant witnessing nature at its peak—anchovy schools exploded in synchronized motion as predators launched their relentless pursuit in a hypnotic display of survival. Below, soft and hard corals stretched as far as the eye could see, a kaleidoscope of bright pinks, purples, reds, and oranges mixed with the more subdued greens, blues, and browns. 

Even the coral restoration sites—where Misool Foundation has been rebuilding lost reefs after decades of overfishing, dynamite fishing, bleaching, and other destructive human activities—were some of the most breathtaking coral gardens we had ever seen.

Despite the world-class dive conditions, we rarely saw another boat on the horizon.

We stayed in Yellu Village, a community consisting of stilted homes over crystal-clear waters. Here, we had the chance to hear firsthand from the community—their challenges, their triumphs, and their deep-rooted connection to the ocean. Every meal was a feast of local flavors: locally caught fish, nasi goreng, and mie goreng (Indonesia’s beloved fried rice and noodles), as well as coconut-infused or sambal-spiced dishes that defined island living. 

When the rain poured in Misool, we came to learn the next day would bring glassy, undisturbed ocean conditions—perfect for navigating the village waterways and heading out to explore another stretch of this extraordinary marine sanctuary.

Our next chapter brought us to the port of Waisai, the gateway to northern Raja Ampat. The overnight ferry from Misool to the north was an experience in itself—an old, sprawling vessel that felt frozen in time despite the steady flow of travelers heading to the famed dive sites. Local advice led us to the best way to make the journey: securing a spot in a shared bunk room, first come, first served. It was a no-frills passage, but with each late-night hour, we edged closer to our next version of paradise - ready to explore and dive Raja Ampat’s northern sites

Staying at the SSI-affiliated Biodiversity Eco Nature Resort put us in the thick of Raja Ampat’s most legendary dive sites situated farther north. From shore, we could see liveaboards and local boats ferrying divers to the famed Blue Magic, Sardine Reef, Cape Kri, Melissa’s Garden, and Fam Slope sites. 

Despite the high traffic of the area, the resort itself felt tucked away, remote in its own right, and fully committed to sustainable diving practices. Every dive was carefully timed to avoid overcrowding, ensuring we never clashed with the liveaboard circuit dumping thirty or more divers into the water at once.

Our boats were limited to 8-10 people, and with small, well-managed dive teams, we rarely even saw each other underwater.

The north proved to be just as jaw-dropping as the south, with strong currents delivering pelagic encounters by the dozen. Melanic manta rays passed effortlessly overhead, their dark wingspans casting shadows in the blue. Schools of batfish moved in slow motion, while grey, whitetip, and blacktip reef sharks cruised past, barely acknowledging us. 

Between the cephalopods—cuttlefish, octopus, and squid—the massive Napoleon wrasse, and the sheer volume of marine life, every moment felt like a sensory overload. We pushed our dive times as long as possible, surfacing only when we absolutely had to, reluctant to leave the spectacle happening below.

Too often, people come to dive Raja Ampat and never step foot beyond the docks of their liveaboards—but the land here is just as extraordinary as the sea. The resort grounds were pumping with life, from the eerie, wide-eyed spotted cuscus—a rare marsupial with a long tail that coiled around palm trees, to the loud calls of wild birds hidden just out of sight in the thick of the jungle canopy.

One early morning, before sunrise, we set out by boat into the island maze near Yenbesir Village to meet Simon Kolomsusu, a 66-year-old bird conservationist. His mission for the last forty years has been to protect the iconic red bird of paradise—a species once hunted to near extinction for its feathers. 

For four generations, his family has worked to end the slaughter, choosing instead to bring visitors into the jungle to witness the birds in the wild. Hiking in the cover of darkness, we arrived at a clearing just as the first light of day revealed flashes of brilliant red and gold in the trees. Raja Ampat’s magic extends well beyond the waterline.

GET INSPIRED: SSI x Edges of Earth: The Catalina Island Sea Camp Transforming Children’s Lives

Making new friends is commonplace when you dive Raja Ampat via liveaboard, yet we found ourselves in a similar scenario despite being anchored on land. Those passing through the Nature Resort all had a care for the planet, wanting to engage in conversation about how to do better, give back more, and explore Earth’s most special places both on land and at sea. 

The genuine curiosity of everyone we met, regardless of their background, was something unique to where we were situated. 

Instead of opting for the small bunks and cabins on a multi-day vessel, they chose solar-powered camps, locally sourced food, and well-timed conservation diving, which needs to be the way of the future if we want to keep exploring these remote places. 

Do not get me wrong—I am obsessed with diving. But in a location as extraordinary as Raja Ampat, the experience is not just about spending your entire time submerged. Diving here is one-of-a-kind, with the best sites being reachable by both liveaboard and land-based operators. 

But with the rise of tourism, some sites are taking on more pressure than imaginable. Giving the ocean a break by staying land-based, even for part of the trip, is not just a responsible choice—it is an opportunity to see and dive Raja Ampat in its entirety. The full picture of undeniable beauty. 

Where we stay, the ethos of the operators we support, and how we engage with local communities all have lasting impacts. If we are fortunate enough to dive in places as pristine as this, we owe it to these regions to be conscious travelers. 

As divers, curiosity should be our default—to ask questions, to seek out sustainable dive centers that work with locals and help better their lives, and to choose experiences that challenge us to be genuine stewards of the ocean. 

Even if that means stepping outside your comfort zone—whether it is trying the spiciest sambal in the village or learning the deeper histories of the waters you are exploring. Because the moments beyond each dive Raja Ampat offers —the connections, the stories, the shared meals—are what stay with us long after we surface.

Are you ready to dive Raja Ampat? Explore the unparalleled beauty of Raja Ampat and find your perfect dive center or resort by visiting this guide to diving in Raja Ampat. Let your next diving journey begin in this incredible paradise.

—

Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website.